So my new connection in my new house got activated today. :thumb:
However.... :red: it being the new house I didn't know where the master socket was and simply plugged into the socket best suited for my needs which was 1 of 2 in my livingroom (for future reference hereafter known as socket 1). It turned out that it didn't work for BB although it has been working fine for my phone and caller ID box thing since the line went live a week ago. I moved my BT 2700HGV over to the other socket in my living room (socket 2) and hey presto I had BB. There is a phone connected to socket 3* upstairs in the bedroom. BB was coming in at just over 2 Megs - which compared to the luxury of my old 13 Meg connection was a bit of a let down... but hey ho, maybe it is just part of the burn in period.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d67/ou7shined/btspeed01.jpg)
I've had a few dropped connections throughout the day - mostly caused by plugging in my caller ID box and phones in - especially into socket 1 ??? and some spontanious ones too. So with this playing on my mind tonight I located my NTE5 master socket (by the front door in the electric box ::)) and plugged my router into it and suddenly I'm getting 5.5 megs - which I believe is standard for the training period.
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d67/ou7shined/btspeed02.jpg)
So it looks like I have internal problems :D
Do I get in touch with BT now to sort out the wiring?
Btw I cracked open some brand new filters today (ones that came with my BT 2700's) so I think we're ok on that front plus I have gone around and disconnected the ring wire as per Rik's awesome FAQ just in case. I'm going to leave it plugged in all night with the phone still disconnected and see if there are any drop outs - which I doubt as it "feels" really good now.
*I'd forgotten about the upstairs phone until tonight (in fact I don't even think my g/f had told me she'd plugged one in - it's at her side of the bed ::)) I believe that socket 3 branches off of socket 2 so I guess I'll have to play about with it later to see if having the phone in socket 3 caused the socket 2 drop outs. I'll leave it for now as I don't want too many disconnects in a row.
Hopefully disconnecting the ring wire has solved the problem and your IP profile will catch up. :thumb:
Yeah I hope so as I'll need to shift the router back into the livingroom and not have cables running all over the shop.
Do I get in BT to sort out the internal wiring or is that down to me to fix?
I didn't think BT was much interested after the master socket,if you move your router back onto an extension you may see the problem returning depending on the cable quality as it can act as an aerial for any in house noise. Perhaps its time to think about a few portables and then you won't need all the extensions.
Personally, if trailing wires are that much of a problem, I'd use the ADSL modem as just a modem, and buy a dumb router. Take a single cable from the modem to the router, and then build the network from there. This will minimise noise since the modem (ADSL router) goes into the master socket. You may also consider a filtered faceplate to the master socket, and remove the trailing ADSL filter from the equation.
Steve
Edit: Get Cat5e or Cat6 network cable to bridge the gap from the ADSL router to the none-ADSL router.
Steve (oh no here I go again) Portable whats? :red:
The extensions are all behind the wall jobs and were here before I moved in.
D-Dan That would work if I had a power socket in my electric box. As it stands either way I have a phone cable or a power cable for the router coming out of the box then crossing the hallway in front of my livingroom door. Sod's law eh.
Portable phones with caller ID and one base unit.
Ah ok. I thought it was more router speak. ;D
Quote from: ou7shined on Mar 02, 2010, 22:38:55
D-Dan That would work if I had a power socket in my electric box. As it stands either way I have a phone cable or a power cable for the router coming out of the box then crossing the hallway in front of my livingroom door. Sod's law eh.
I had a similar problem - I had to use an extended socket to modem lead because I had no powerpoint anywhere close to the master socket. I solved it by having a single socket extension made to a length that I could route it unobtrusively within range of the master socket, then I bought 20M Cat6 cables and routed them around the walls and doors (I went fully wired - no second router). You could acheive the same with a single 20m Cat6 cable and a single mains extension.
Steve
You could have a 2 gang electric socket put in your electric cupboard (shouldn't cost a lot, given the location) and then use "mains networking" like these http://www.homeplugs.co.uk/acatalog/Solwise_HomePlugs.html#a23
No wires to run and you can move them around to suit your needs, or you can just add more units. They come in wired and wireless versions, or both.
I might have a crack at putting a electric socket in my electric box then.
It's quite central to the house and seems to be giving good wifi coverage to the rest of it.
update:
Well for the princely sum of £20 I had a sparky install a double socket in my electric box. My 2700 now lives in there...
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d67/ou7shined/bt2700-fusebox.jpg)
I get full bars (wifi) all around the house from here so I'm very chuffed.
My profile seems to have settled at 4MB, which although is a 1/3 of what I was getting before, I can live with.
Unfortunately the wiring is still skew-whiff. Everything is fine as long as I go into the inner master socket but as soon as I put the NTE5 back together and plug anything in either the faceplate or any extensions along with my router it all goes phut again - either broken internets or no connection at all. Phones still work fine from the extensions but they knock off the internet. The only working solution is to put my router and 1 phone into the inner master socket.
Could the the NTE5 faceplate be faulty? (it looks ok - brand new in fact)
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d67/ou7shined/NTE5-faceplate.jpg)
If it's the problem then perhaps the wiring to the extensions could well be ok.
Is it a BT job now?
Wait for Rik et al to confirm but I think you've got a bell/ring wire attached at pin 3 which if so will cause a lot of interference
He has, Steve. Get rid of that connection from terminal 3 at the master and all other sockets, or fit a filtered master, Ou7.
Are you guys sure? The one terminal that has nothing in it says "3" next to it (5 at the top). I have removed all other ring wires in the house myself after reading your FAQ Rik but the master one I left untouched - I peeked in saw nothing in 3 and left it. I presume that loose dark orange wire was in term 3.
Looking back at your faq my master socket isn't wired at all the same as your example. Perhaps I should copy this layout on mine?
(http://www.idnetters.co.uk/forums/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1904.0;attach=4995;image)
From the bottom you have signal wire in terminal 2, ring in terminal 3, nothing in 4 and signal wire in 5. The orange wire is usually used for the ring wire, which adds to my suspicions. You can see the 3 under the wire, next to the terminal.
The pic above is yours Rik.
My master socket pic is the one above that with the gnarly hand in shot. :D
No wonder I thought it looked so good. ;) Still remove the orange wire, it's not needed.
Weeeeeell that seems to have done the trick.
I've probably lost a point or two off my profile for successive disconnects but at least everything seems to be running as it should all around the house. I keep you updated.
Thanks to you both. :thumb: :thumb:
:fingers:
Quote from: ou7shined on Mar 09, 2010, 16:11:23
The pic above is yours Rik.
My master socket pic is the one above that with the gnarly hand in shot. :D
:pmsl: Senility rules! ;D
Isn't having a router surrounded by electrical wiring a possible cause of interference? Normally you keep wiring well away :dunno:
as a matter of interest in the pic of ou7shined why is the Ethernet LED (the top one of the central five) not lit?
Quote from: joe on Mar 10, 2010, 08:20:37
as a matter of interest in the pic of ou7shined why is the Ethernet LED (the top one of the central five) not lit?
Because he has the Ethernet cable plugged into number 3 instead of 1?
There's only one light Gary, any connection and it comes on.
Quote from: Rik on Mar 10, 2010, 10:01:53
There's only one light Gary, any connection and it comes on.
Its so long since I had one , Rik I cannot remember. Old age for you ;D
Just wait till you reach it. ;D
Quote from: Rik on Mar 10, 2010, 10:17:00
Just wait till you reach it. ;D
On my medication it feels like I have, Rik. :pullface:
;D
It's not far off for me in fact I'm probably there already. :D
As for the Ethernet led? There's no light as there's nothing plugged in at the other end - I always keep that particular cable plugged in (in number 1 btw ;)) for when I have to do manual a set up sans wifi.
Being in the electric box seems to be having no effect upon my router as far as wifi strength goes. I'm not sure as to what effect it might be having on my connection condition as I'm not sure what this connection is capable of yet. But this house is a relatively new build so I guess all the shielding standards are in place.
I used to have my 2700 sitting on top of my hi-fi's sub-woofer in the last house which again is a no no but it didn't harm my 13MB connection any.
At least the sub woofer would give the router a firm bass. :whistle:
:grn: ;D
Quote from: Steve on Mar 10, 2010, 11:24:43
At least the sub woofer would give the router a firm bass. :whistle:
;D
Right up until it shuffled itself over to the edge and fell off. (jk) :D
ou7shined doesn't use a hard wired connection from router to PC. Isn't the speed always going to be less wirelessly?
Theoretically, yes, but unless he's connected at 20Mb or greater, it will not impact on internet traffic, only cross-network traffic.
Quote from: Rik on Mar 11, 2010, 09:17:23
Theoretically, yes, but unless he's connected at 20Mb or greater, it will not impact on internet traffic, only cross-network traffic.
I wish I could have said that.
I started a reply to that effect a while back but became aware that I was rambling and also not 100% sure of my figures so binned it. :D
;D
Just sound authoritative, Rich, it works for me. ;)
Ah so that's the secret. :D
;)
After reading through this thread I decided to have a dig around in my extension wiring to see if there was anything I could do to improove my own line. Most of it is really old, pre 1980's in a star setup, it was modified by BT who put in a NTE5 in the loft i think in the 90's, so I wasnt sure what i'd find.
Oddly enough I found several points having 4 wires connected and some even with all 6 :eyebrow:. I even found what appeard to be an old "master" being used as a normal extension :eek4:, so I swapped out that plate for a spare. I'm not able to pull out the extra wires on the newer cable that goes to where the adsl modem is as there is a lot of very large furniture blocking it but I can disconnect it at the NTE5 end however.
I was wondering if grounding the other wires would work? Ie remove them at the NTE5 end and connect it to a water pipe or something? ( i havnt done this, the idea just came to me now).
I'm less than a mile from the exchange on an 'L' shaped road,even the long route around the L is under a mile, but i've never had anything overly great in terms of line speed, in plus net days years ago it was dreadful, now on Idnet for a couple years its been prity good. From my actions today the SNR margin has gone from a solid 13 to shaky 14, and attenuation has gone from 4 to 6 (which seems odd). But I can now sync at 8128 insted of 6500.
While checking the modem stats (after reboot) I noticed the following:
> adsl status
--------------------------- ATU-R Info (hw: annex A, f/w: annex A) -----------
Running Mode : G.DMT State : SHOWTIME
DS Actual Rate : 8128000 bps US Actual Rate : 832000 bps
DS Path Mode : Interleave US Path Mode : Interleave
NE Current Attenuation : 6 dB Cur SNR Margin : 14 dB
NE Current Attenuation : 6 dB Cur SNR Margin : 14 dB
ADSL Firmware Version : 131701_A
-------------------------------- ATU-C Info ---------------------------------
Far Current Attenuation : 10 dB Far SNR Margin : 5 dB
CO ITU Version[0] : 00005453 CO ITU Version[1] : 00005443
DSLAM CHIPSET VENDOR : < TI >
What got my attention is the "Interleave", I assume this means I have Interleaving set on the line, which I wasnt aware of, and Idnet have never mentioned it. I'm not even slightly clued in as to most of these figures, so I was hoping someone on here could give me an opinion on it. My current IP profile is 6000 from the BT speed test.
I currently use a draytek vigor 100, adsl ethernet modem which plugs into my own linux router. I was also curious as to this 2700 router thats been suggested and if its going to be much different to the draytek.
Any help greatly appreciated :)
Looks like your efforts have improved things,you've now got a full sync,which you should have with that very low attenuation. You can ask for interleave to be turned off as you shouldn't need it on such a short line. The modem I don't think is a factor, I use the 120 version without any issues,the 2700 tends to excel on longer lines from the exchange than yours but there's no harm in experimenting. Your profile will probably take 10 days or so to sneak up to 7150.